The ABC of Topical Skin Nutrition
The ABC of Topical Skin Nutrition (Aestheticians/Skin Therapists Only)
Many Therapists find it confusing when starting to build on their ingredient knowledge and ask for a break down of the most often used vitamins in cosmeceutical products. This is a simplified version of a very complex science and does not replace the need for Therapists to learn and understand the organ they work with on a daily basis – the skin!
Educate yourself constantly and start with the skin cells. Understanding this first will not only make it easier for you to explain the need for skin care products containing these ingredients to your client; it will also increase your retail sales ten fold. Every client will walk out of the spa with home care products and your appointment schedule should be full with return treatments.
Now this doesn’t mean these vitamins are only for these conditions, but these are the skins that need to have these ingredients as a priority.
1. Vitamin A = Acne & Ageing.
Retinyl Palmitate/Acetate, Retinol, Retinaldehyde, Retinoic Acid
Retinoids (family of Vitamin A) are used to repair cellular damage and cell turnover. All skin needs this vitamin to improve cell function.
Client Tip: “Retinoids normalize cells – from cell function to cell turnover”
2. Vitamin B3 = Barrier & Brown (pigmentation) Vitamin B3: Niacinamide, Nicotinamide
Vitamin B3 assists with the repair of the skins barrier and inhibits the transfer of the melanosome to the keratinocyte – improving hyperpigmentation.
Client Tip: “Vitamin B3 improves the barrier function – hydrating the skin and protects the skin from pigmenting”
3. Vitamin B5 = Blood & Barrier
Vitamin B5: Panthenol
Vitamin B5 assists with wound care and improving the skins barrier. Client Tip: “Soothes and inflamed skin”
4. Vitamin C = Collagen & Colour
Vitamin C: Ascorbic Acid, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl
Tetraisopalmitate, and Ascorbyl Glucoside
Vitamin C assists with the collagen production by improving fibroblast production. It improves hyperpigmentation as it acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor. Vitamin C is also a powerful antioxidant; therefore assists with cell damage caused by free radicals.
Client Tip: “A great ingredient to improve the signs of ageing with a better quality collagen production while also improving the appearance of skin discolouration.”
Remember, this is a simplified version of ingredient science that all Therapists must know to be successful in treating client’s skin conditions.
I hope it helps.